How to Measure a Splashback

Glass splashbacks make a fantastic addition to your kitchen, bathroom, or just about any area really. They provide a gloss and depth of colour which is unmatched by any other wall covering. In this article, I will be explaining how to go about measuring your splashback to achieve the best possible accuracy, and in turn, outstanding results.

The measurements for your splashback are crucial. Glass splashbacks cannot be altered once made, so it is important to take great care and time at this stage as it will save a great deal of heartache later. There is also something to be said for the satisfaction derived from effortlessly installing a perfect fitting project.

There are a few different methods you can utilise to measure your splashback, varying in difficulty and dependent on certain conditions:

• Datum Lines: The most accurate method of measuring a splashback, and the focus of this article, is to establish vertical and horizontal datum lines for each panel. This provides a known reference (A datum) from which to measure, ensuring the greatest accuracy. It can be time consuming, and at times a little tricky, but this is more than paid for by the confidence in knowing your splashback will fit perfectly.
• Overall Sizes: This is the most common and simplest way of measuring a splashback. It involves simply measuring between fixed points such as adjoining walls, cupboards, benchtops, etc. However, if any surface is not level, plumb or true, poor results are almost guaranteed. This method works great for uncomplicated rectangular splashbacks, installed onto surfaces you have checked (And double checked!) to be adequate.
• Reference Points: The last method is to combine the two methods above. This provides a good trade-off; reducing the difficulty and complexity of the datum method, but also taking into account variations in the substrate not accounted for by measuring overall sizes. It can be used just about anywhere that you can verify 1 full length horizontal line to be level and 1 full length vertical line to be plumb. The same basic principles of the datum method apply here, except you will be using existing lines (Which you have checked and ensured are plumb and level), instead of establishing your own references through datum lines.

Tools you will need:

• Tape Measure
• Spirit Level (A cross-line laser level is even better, if you have one)
• Writing Pad
• Pencil

Step by Step:

• Preparation:
  • As with most things, careful preparation is paramount. The more care that has been taken in ensuring the surrounding objects (I.e. kitchen cupboards) have been installed both plumb and level, the easier it will be to measure and install your splashback.
  • Check to make sure all the surfaces on which a splashback will be installed are flat and true. Small imperfections are fine, but large lumps and winds will make things difficult since glass is a very rigid material.
  • If you will be installing glass behind a gas cooktop, you may be required to install a fire retardant board in order to comply with Australian Standards (AS5601). If the distance from the wall behind to the periphery (Outside edge) of the nearest burner is less than 200mm, the wall must be protected by a non-combustible board that continues at least 150mm above the cooktop and covers the full dimension of the cooking area. Examples of suitable boards are Bellis Board and Supalux. The board will need to be recessed so that the face is flush with the surrounding wall surface.

  

• Sketching Your Panel Shapes:
  • Draw sketches of each panel shape. Try to be be neat and keep somewhat to scale here, as it will make it easier to dimension and identify panels for installation. Be sure to draw them large enough to add dimensions to later; One panel per A4 page is a good starting point.

  

• Determining the Installation Order:
  • If your splashback has multiple panels, you will need to decide on an order in which to fit each piece as this will affect the deductions you need to make from each panel later on. You should also ensure that any panel will fit over fixtures, such as taps, during installation.
  • It is a good idea to install the largest or most complicated panels first. This allows you to make greater deductions to some sizes, ensuring the panel will fit, while still covering any gaps with the adjacent panel. If you have a panel that is constrained on all four sides, it is wise to consider installing this first for the same reason.
  • Mark each of your sketches in the order that they will be installed. If you like, you can also sketch a plan view of the installation order as this will help you to identify which panels overlap which when installing.

  

• Establishing Datum Lines:
  • Using your spirit level (Or laser level, if you have one), draw a level horizontal line on the wall at around half the overall height of the panel.
  • Now draw a vertical line, plumb, at around half the overall width of the panel.
  • These are not hard and fast rules. For example, you may find it better to draw the vertical line half way between the step up for the range hood, as shown in the diagram.
  • It is important that you take great care in ensuring these lines are both plumb and level, as they will be the reference for every measurement you make.
  • Copy these datum line positions onto your sketches.

  

• Taking Measurements:
  • Now, take a measurement at each corner; from every point where a horizontal and vertical line intersect.
  • Measure from each datum line to the point of measurement and record it on your sketches.
  • Be sure to hold the tape measure as straight as possible, parallel to the corresponding datum line. Try your best not to bow the tape either, as this will also result in inaccuracies. If you need to measure long distances, get someone to help you. And remember to measure to the millimetre.
  • For the sake of simplicity, I have used perfectly square panels – Nothing out of plumb or level. However, you will rarely encounter this in reality and accounting for these imperfections is where using this method really stands out above the rest.

  

• Measuring Power Points and Holes:
  • To measure power points (You may hear them referred to as GPOs) or holes, you again measure from the datum lines, but this time to the centre of the power point or hole.
  • On your sketches, roughly record the positions and add the dimensions.

  

• Making Deductions to Allow for Fitting:
  • What you have now are referred to as tight sizes – an accurate record of the size of your substrate. You now need to make deductions to these sizes to allow the panels to fit. If you can, it’s a good idea to make a copy to alter so that you always have to original to refer back to.
  • A good rule of thumb is to allow 3mm all the way around the perimeter of each panel. Some panels, such as simple rectangular panels, can be made tighter for a neater fit, however panels with internal corners, such as on a ranghood cutout, require a radius to survive the toughening process. Therefore anything less then 3mm will not fit in these areas. So go ahead and take 3mm off each dimension on your sketch, except for the power points or holes.
  • Be sure to not double up on deductions. This can be easy to do on panels shaped like the ones in the example.
  • Using the datum method makes it difficult to introduce errors in your deductions as the reference points are fixed. However, if you used plumb and level edges as your reference points, their positions will change as you make changes to sizes.

• You’re Done!:
  • Now all you need to do is fill out our online form using the largest overall sizes for each panel and if you’re happy with the price, send us your sketches, and wait for you splashback to be made. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, we’re happy to help.